After a day in Santa Fe, New Mexico, we were ready to get back to nature and away from city life. Although it wasn’t originally in our plans, we ended up having a great day exploring the area just north of Santa Fe, specifically Valles Caldera National Preserve and White Rock Overlook.

I came across Valles Caldera in a magazine outlining the different National Park System properties near Santa Fe. We had already explored the Manhattan Project National Historical Park, Bandelier National Monument, and Pecos National Historical Park so it only made sense to check this final location off our list!

Valles Caldera National Preserve

We headed north toward Bandelier and continued on to the Valles Caldera, stopping at the Valle Grande overlook for the full view of this 13-mile wide sunken volcano. When the volcano here erupted 1.2 million years ago, its huge magma chamber emptied and the land above it sunk into that vacant cavity, creating the caldera. Over time, as new magma flowed back up toward what used to be the chamber, it caused the caldera floor to heave, creating the mountain peaks present today.

Because of the residual soil composition and unique climate, trees don’t grow in the caldera. Instead, the caldera floor is primarily grassland, and there is a distinct tree line circling the area that indicates where the conditions are ideal for other plants and trees.

Like much of this area in New Mexico, Valles Caldera was originally home to paleoindians, hunter gatherers, and Ancestral Pueblo who hunted, fished, and gathered obsidian. Following Spanish and Anglo-Saxton arrival, the land was taken over for ranching sheep and later cattle. White settlers hunted the native elk to extinction, and it wasn’t until the the 1940s and 1960s that Rocky Mountain elk from Wyoming were reintroduced to the Jamez Mountains. That herd is now the second largest elk population in New Mexico and often seen in the caldera – but unfortunately not today.

There was way more snow than we had anticipated so it didn’t look at though we’d be able to hike as I had hoped. We had our poles and spikes, but this degree of snow would require skis or snowshoes to cross.

We had heard it might be tricky reaching the Valles Caldera Entrance Station, which is situated a ways out into the caldera. My Saturn Vue isn’t four-wheel drive, but we had brought along chains and decided to try and make it to the station.

The entrance was deceptively clear of snow at first, giving me false confidence. As we rounded the first curve, the road conditions quickly deteriorated – snow drifts, giant potholes, slick slush, and no where to go when someone was coming the opposite direction. I managed to get us to the station but I told Brian he was going to have to drive us back out!

The rangers at the station were helpful, renting gear and instructing people who wanted to cross country ski and snowshoe on how to get started. We looked through the gift shop, roamed around the station taking pictures, and then decided to conclude our visit. I’d love to come back for a full day and with the appropriate gear to enjoy this beautiful space – perhaps in a different season so we can hike and look for wildlife.

White Rock Overlook

After successfully leaving the caldera we switched gears and returned to White Rock to check out the viewpoint, which was supposed to be stunning in the afternoon.

We weren’t sure what to expect as we navigated through a residential neighborhood full of people bicycling and enjoying the warm weather. Quite the departure from the caldera conditions only a few miles away!

At the end of a local street we finally came to the overlook parking. There were a decent number of spots and paved trails out to the viewpoint. It was a clear day, and we could see in nearly every direction. It was one of our best views of the Rio Grande this trip, which was winding through the valley below, the Jamez Mountains in the distance. The light was in fact ideal in the afternoon, and we enjoyed some time simply admiring the view.

I’d definitely recommend a quick stop at the overlook if you’re visiting Santa Fe or Los Alamos. Also a quick visit to the White Rock Visitor Center, which has lots of information about all of the things to do in this area, including the caldera, overlook, and more. Enjoy!