After several incredible days in the northern part of the country, we relocated to southern Wales and set out to explore the second national park of our trip – Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

The Pembrokeshire Coast is one of the smallest of the UK’s National Parks but don’t let the size fool you, you’re at the gateway to a range of stunning landscapes. The quality coastline is backed by hills, estuaries, valleys and woodlands that allow you to discover something different. While the coastline may be the headline act, it’s backed by a stellar supporting cast and although nowhere in the National Park is more than ten miles from the sea, there’s far more to explore than you may think.

https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/about-the-national-park/

We stayed a couple nights in St. David’s – the southwestern-most tip of Wales and right in the heart of the national park – and made the most of our time by hiking the coastline, visiting key landmarks, mingling with the locals, and (bucket list item for me!) boating out to see the puffins.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

As the name suggests, exploring the coastline is a must in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

Brian discovered St. Justinian’s Coastal Walk, a 3.9-mile loop trail not far from where we were staying, so we checked part of it out one morning. We started at Caerfai Beach, admiring the red and purple cliffs before walking along the narrow coastal path.

Sections of the trail opened up and followed the fencing of nearby private residences. There were yellow and purple flowers everywhere and the water was calm and beautiful.

The trail climbed and dropped more than I expected. I had to remove my coat and scarf as I warmed up along the way!

We ended our brief hike at St. Non’s Chapel and Well.

Said to be the 6th-century birthplace of the patron saint of Wales, St David, it is named after his mother, and remains a place of pilgrimage to this day. The small, rectangular chapel may be plain and simple, but its setting overlooking rocky St Non’s Bay is breathtaking. On the path leading up to the chapel you’ll pass a holy well believed to possess curative powers, another popular stop for visiting pilgrims.

https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/st-nons-chapel

Near the site is a small stone church and retreat center overlooking the St. Non’s cliffs. There were some small offerings at the alter and around the windows, and I was taken with a small wooden sign at the entry.

St. David’s Cathedral

One of the reasons people visit this area is to explore St. David’s Cathedral. Built between 1180 and 1182 the current structure incorporates centuries of rebuilding and expansion.  

We didn’t have nearly enough time to explore inside – apart from the main area there were multiple smaller chapels that seemed to appear around every corner, each with their own design and purpose.

I was fascinated by the beautiful wooden ceiling in the nave – dating from the 1530s – and Brian especially enjoyed the chapel featured below with the multicolored, carved marble elements.

Just beyond the cathedral and cloisters are the remains of the Bishop’s Palace. In the mid-1500s, the Catholic church was under fire for its excessive wealth and corruption. The Protestant bishop at that time made several changes at St. David’s to disperse many of the relics and treasures housed at the cathedral and moved the bishop’s headquarters away from the palace to a more practical and centralized location.

Part of that move included dispersing the palace’s wealth, including stripping all the lead from its roofs. The compromised ceilings and overall desertion led to the palace’s ongoing disrepair, resulting in the ruins still occupying the site today.

The Grove Hotel

We enjoyed staying at the quiet Grove Hotel on High Street in St. David’s, which is set up in our favorite configuration with an onsite pub. Originally a coaching inn from the 1800s, the hotel has a lot of charm.

After our daily activities, we enjoyed winding down in the sunroom and watching the people and pets out on the grassy lawn seating. We also got to try Brains Beer, an independent and family owned Welsh brewer that’s been around since 1882!

I enjoyed our brief time in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park but felt like we only scratched the surface of this lovely place. I would have loved to have carved out more time to take advantage of the many hiking trails and to have visited more of the coastal towns throughout this region.

Next time!